Batmini
168 posts
Joined: 11/03/2007 10:47:54
Location: Kidderminster United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
thermostat studs
The other option is to fit the thermostat housing back on using the existing studs, using a drill that will just fit the hole in the thermostat, drill down just a fraction through the housing into the broken stud. This should centre the drill to the broken stud. Now you can either try the easy-out, or re drill and tap.
Posted: Nov 06, 2010 03:01 PM
Michael
10 posts
Joined: 27/11/2010 12:29:48
Location: Harrow Weald United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Studs may not be seized in the Head.
Often it isn't the case that the studs are seized in the head, but more a case that the shank of the stud has got corroded and caught solid in the body of the thermostat housing, so drilling and using a stud extractor may be a totally fruitless exercise, as you'll probably find the other two bolts will be just the same. Even if you do end up shearing off the heads of the other bolts you still won't be able to get the thermostat housing off as it'll be totally jammed tight.
Happpened to mine during a "routine"thermostat change and resulted in me having to literally smash the old thermostat housing to get it off, and replacing the lot for new. Suprisingly the studs (or bolts in my case) came out of the head without any hassle at all once i'd reverted to taking the club hammer to the housing. Fortunately I live 20 mins away from MS, so was able to pop up on my bike and pick up the replacement bits, so no biggie.
Just a warning to you, as if you go for it and find your studs/bolts are totally seized in the housing you might end up with the car off the road for a couple of days waiting for parts to arrive, so consider it before going to crazy with the socket set. Those studs are about as tough as marzipan and sheer off at just the slightest excuse. Plenty of soaked in WD40 if definately the way forwards before attempting anything!
Posted: Dec 14, 2010 04:19 PM
Jake Holmes
172 posts
Joined: 14/02/2009 21:39:11
Location: Walton on Thames United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
re
Could be a faulty gauge or sender. Or a stuck closed thermostat. Not too difficult to replace either although if you do remove the thermostat housing be careful of the studs, they rust and the threads are easily stripped on replacement.
Posted: Jul 12, 2010 12:38 PM
Rich
7 posts
Joined: 14/01/2005 18:31:32
Location: Yeovil United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
difrents betwen engine cooper S MK3 and early 1275 GT
Hi, the easy way to tell is the mk3 cooper s has an 11 stud head (higher compression), the 1275 gt doesnt. Also mk3 cooper s has 12G1805 stanped on the head behind the thermostat housing. The mk3 coopers s is more powerful because it has been tuned more than the 1275gt, the obvious difference is the mk3 cooper s has a twin carb set-up, there are of course lost of other differences, but it would take a really long time to type :) I hope this helps. Look at the picture of my mk3 cooper s engine, almost finished :)
Posted: Aug 24, 2005 03:38 PM
Tim
1849 posts
Joined: 18/10/2004 09:40:59
Location: Bournemouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
It's certainly worth having a go at drilling down the broken stud and using an "easy out" extractor. Make the hole as central as possible in the stud, and as large as possible without damaging the threads. You will need to use a decent drill bit - I did a similar job recently on a stainless steel stud and used a Bosch HSS Cobalt drill bit - went through it like a knife through butter (well, almost).
Oh, and cover the open thermostat housing to prevent little bits of steel swarf getting into the cooling system!
And when you replace the studs, use plenty of coppergrease to make it easier next time they have to come out.
Posted: Oct 19, 2010 08:50 AM
someone
21 posts
Joined: 26/07/2007 23:59:46
Location: weymouth United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
12G295 head
genuine, and as far as i know, unmolested. Valves/springs included,a few studs and a thermostat housing included too.
I bought this to fit on my mini, but i just dont have the time and need money for other stuff. Besides, my mini engine is pretty hot as it is. Its in good condition, and i was just going to bolt it right on. In the perfect world it will need a re grind, and maybe a skim (depends on what you want to put it on) but
Apprintly, its worth about £100. I paid about that for it (cant remember...was a while ago). Apparintly thats about normal.
Anyone interasted? Im open to offers.
Posted: Feb 29, 2008 12:49 AM
Patrick Campbell
13 posts
Joined: 24/10/2017 12:28:13
Location: Walton-on-Thames United Kingdom (Excluding channel Islands)
Head Gasket
Hi all,
1988 Mini Designer 998cc A+ engine with no modifications.
I have recently had a problem with the lose of coolant, why I am not sure I think it got blown out from the joint top hose to thermostat housing. I took the engine out of the car and bench ran it at idle speed with the occasional increase in revs for about 10 minutes to make sure there were no obvious leaks. I did notice that there was very minor seepage from the head gasket not enough to account for the overall lose of coolant. As far as I can see there is no sign of coolant in the oil. I removed the head studs and countersunk their sockets to remove any thread lift/pull as I understand that thread lift/pull can cause problems. I fitted a new head gasket GUG702506HG, bench ran the engine at idle speed for about 5-10 minutes with occasional increase in revs and I still had the minor coolant seepage. I had .oo4 skimmed off the head and reassembled with a new head gasket again GUG702506HG, head nuts as usual torqued to 50 ftlbs as per Haynes manual. I bench ran the engine for 3-5 minutes only at idle speed and I still have the minor coolant seepage. It appears to be from above the gasket in one place and below the gasket in another. The gasket is fitted with the copper side up.
Any ideas would be welcome.
Regards one frustrated Paddy
Posted: Jun 24, 2022 02:27 PM